Varnishing & Sealing
Seal your finished paint job under a protective varnish so it survives handling, gaming, and time.
Varnish is the invisible armour we seal a finished model under: a clear protective coat that keeps hours of paintwork from rubbing off between thumb and forefinger the first time the model hits the table. Matt varnish is our default — it kills the plastic shine and leaves the paint looking exactly as we intended — and we apply it the way we prime, in thin, even passes, because varnish laid on too thick fogs and pools just like paint. The finishing touch runs the other way: a deliberate drop of gloss on gems, eyes, and blades puts the shine back only where we want it.
Best For
Recommended Paint Types
Step-by-Step
Wait until the model is completely done and fully dry — varnish goes over everything, so any paint after it sits on top of the seal.
In dry, room-temperature air, hold the can 20–30 cm away and mist matt varnish (spray or brush-on) over the whole model, every angle, base included in short passes that start and end off the model.
Let the first coat dry for 30 minutes, then check under a lamp for missed shine and lay a second thin coat if the model will see regular gaming.
For the sparkle pass: touch gloss varnish — full strength, never thinned — onto gems, eyes, blades, and anything wet with a size 0 round; the contrast with the matt makes them jump.
If It Goes Wrong
If matt varnish dries frosty-white (sprayed in humidity), don't panic — a coat of gloss varnish over the frost dissolves it, then re-matt on a dry day; a drip or run is left to cure fully, shaved level with a fresh blade, and touched up before re-sealing.
Variations
Brush-on varnish gives the same protection with total control: two thin coats laid with a size 2 round in smooth one-direction strokes, never scrubbed, so no bubbles work into the finish.
A gloss coat first gives oils and enamels a slick surface to flow across and wipe off cleanly — plan the gloss coat BEFORE your weathering step, then knock the shine back down with a final matt coat once the weathering is done.
Pro Tips
Humidity is varnish's enemy — a dry day beats a perfect technique.
Shake the can for a full minute — poorly mixed matting agent is a top cause of frosting.
Two thin coats protect far better than one heavy one, exactly like paint.
Test a new can on a spare model or sprue first; varnishes vary batch to batch.
Gloss is tougher than matt — for hard-gaming armies, gloss first, then matt over it for the finish.
Matt varnish dulls metallics — a spot of gloss or satin over metallic areas brings the sparkle back.
Glue static grass and tufts on after varnishing — spray matt dulls and mats them down.
Common Mistakes
Spraying in humid air — the classic cause of white frosting.
One heavy coat instead of two thin ones — pooling in every recess.
Varnishing before the final paint is fully dry — it can lift or smear the last details.
Skipping varnish on a gaming army — edge wear appears within a few sessions.