Weathering & Battle Damage
Add realistic wear, chips, scratches, rust, and dirt to make models look battle-worn.
Weathering adds realism by simulating the effects of use, age, and combat on a model. This includes paint chips on armor, rust on metal, mud splatter on legs, dust on cloaks, and scratches on weapons. A cleanly painted model looks great, but a weathered model tells a story. The key is restraint — apply weathering where it would logically occur.
Best For
Recommended Paint Types
Step-by-Step
Finish your base paint job first — weathering goes on last.
For paint chips: dab a small sponge (torn from blister foam) into a dark metallic or dark brown. Dab off most paint, then lightly press against edges and flat panels.
For scratches: use a fine brush to paint thin silver/dark lines on edges that would see wear.
For rust: stipple orange-brown paint in patches, then add darker brown and silver chips over it.
For dirt/mud: drybrush or stipple earth tones onto lower legs, tracks, and undersides.
For dust: very lightly drybrush a pale tan across surfaces facing upward.
Step back and assess — it's easy to overdo it.
Pro Tips
Chips happen where the model would physically contact things: edges, corners, flat panels near handles.
Use the sponge technique for random, natural-looking chip patterns.
Layer your weathering: base damage (dark brown) → metal showing through (silver) → rust (orange).
Vehicles get more weathering on the lower hull, tracks, and leading edges.
Common Mistakes
Overdoing it — restraint is key. A few well-placed chips beat uniform damage.
Random placement — weathering should follow logical wear patterns.
Chips that are too large or too uniform in size.
Applying weathering before the base paint job is finished.